Paris Fashion Week Avant Garde Fashion Spring/Summer 2027 Menswear Highlights
Discover the Paris Fashion Week Avant Garde Fashion Spring/Summer 2027 Menswear Highlights from the runways.
Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2027 Stone Avant Garde Fashion Menswear Collection
The Rick Owens SS27 Collection “Stone” presentation felt like fashion staged at the edge of climate collapse: models moved through a brutal, sun-baked setting in inflated cooling pieces, sharp tailoring, latex details and authoritarian epaulets. With adidas Climacool technology, ice-vest references and Owens’ signature gothic severity, the collection turned survival gear into ritualistic avant-garde menswear.
Ziggy Chen Spring/Summer 2027 Avant Garde Fashion Collection AMBIEPOSE
The Ziggy Chen SS27 “Ambiepose” collection brought a quieter kind of avant-garde to Paris Fashion Week, built around worn memory, faded surfaces and the poetry of time passing through fabric. With soft cuts, restrained volume, linen and silk textures, openwork denim and leather, and a palette of linen hues, blue-grey and rain-washed tones, Chen turned menswear into something atmospheric and lived-in where every garment seemed to carry the trace of weather, movement and memory.
Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2027 Avant Garde Fashion Menswear Collection
The Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme SS27 collection brought Paris Fashion Week back to the quiet force of deconstructed tailoring: models moved with Yamamoto’s signature slow, unhurried cadence in oversized black silhouettes, fragile romantic layers and jackets that seemed to carry their own weight. With strong shoulders, distressed surfaces, hand-painted details, zipper constructions and moments of soft rebellion, the collection felt like classic Yohji: poetic, imperfect and quietly defiant, turning menswear into a meditation on endurance, imbalance and beauty under pressure.
UMA WANG Spring/Summer 2027 Avant-Garde Menswear Collection
The UMA WANG SS27 menswear collection offered a more restrained vision of avant-garde fashion, built on imperfection, weathered textures and garments that looked beautifully lived-in. Instead of spectacle, Wang leaned into quiet erosion: washed cottons, irregularly dyed linens, substantial herringbone, soft tailoring and earthy, time-worn surfaces that felt touched by dust, travel and memory. It was contemplative menswear with a nomadic soul.
Maison Mihara Yasuhiro SS27 Collection ENDLESS SUMMER
The Maison Mihara Yasuhiro SS27 “Endless Summer” collection turned summer nostalgia into something slightly off-kilter and beautifully worn-in. Rather than bright holiday fantasy, Yasuhiro worked in muted neutrals, pale creams, taupes and soft greys, with relaxed tailoring, elongated jackets, loose trousers, layered proportions and his signature distorted footwear. It felt like a summer memory left out in the sun too long. Casual, melancholic, undone and unmistakably Mihara Yasuhiro.
Kolor Spring/Summer 2027 Collection
The Kolor SS27 collection brought its usual controlled chaos to Paris Fashion Week, twisting familiar menswear codes into something bright, layered and deliberately off-balance. Classic tailoring was warped through unexpected color clashes, mixed textures and playful volume, giving the collection a slinky, slightly surreal energy.
TAAKK Spring/Summer 2027 Collection
The TAAKK SS27 collection brought a softer, more observational kind of avant-garde to Paris Fashion Week, with Takuya Morikawa turning everyday menswear archetypes into studies of transformation. Inspired by flowers and Irving Penn’s photographic eye, the collection played with delicate shifts in texture, color and construction. Jackets, shirts, denim and tailoring that seemed familiar at first, then slowly revealed something stranger.
COMME des GARÇONS Spring/Summer 2027 Collection SHIRT
The COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT SS27 collection brought a playful jolt of avant-garde tailoring to Paris Fashion Week, with Rei Kawakubo turning the everyday shirt into something far stranger and more animated. Built around what the brand described as “tailoring of the avant-garde,” the show mixed sharp shirting codes with distorted proportions, layered constructions and vivid, towering wigs that pushed the clothes into theatrical territory.
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2027 Collection
The Dries Van Noten SS27 collection brought a lyrical softness to Paris Fashion Week, with Julian Klausner leaning into air, ease and pale, sun-faded color. Barely-there layers, silk cargo pants, unlined duster coats, semi-sheer shirts, short shorts and lightweight parkas moved with a loose, dreamlike elegance, offering a gentler answer to dressing in extreme heat.
sacai Spring/Summer 2027 Menswear Collection
The sacai SS27 collection brought Chitose Abe’s hybrid language into a softer, preppy register, digging into 1980s codes and twisting them with the brand’s usual precision. Tailoring, layered shirting, striped silks, relaxed proportions and the newly unveiled Birkenstock collaboration gave the show an easy but engineered charm. Familiar pieces spliced, shifted and rebuilt until they felt both nostalgic and completely new.
