Leon Emanuel Blanck AW24 Collection Memento Mori
Following successful battles in Ancient Rome, a unique custom began prevailing as returning generals were celebrated upon arriving at the Colosseum: crowds – oftens slaves – repeatedly shouted ‘Memento Mori’. Translating to ‘remember you must die’ , the tradition held roots in reminding the generals that they were in-fact mortal and not Gods.
Centuries after the fall of the Roman Empire, this custom transformed and evolved into a widespread cult of the dead across Europe. The cult, seen as a form of remembering the dead, developed and expanded over time. In an era before photography, remnants of the deceased – hair, a fingernail, teeth, or pieces of bone – were retained as memories.
Particularly popular in southern regions of Italy, this practice persisted until the late 21st century. Preserved remains were ingeniously utilised to create works of art and jewellery as tributes to loved ones. Hair for instance was made into brooches, while teeth were sculpted into rings. Additionally, a creation known as the ‘Tree of Life’ became common using the hair of the deceased. It would be displayed on walls as a form of artistic expression and remembrance.
For the Leon Emanuel Blanck Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, titled ‘Memento Mori’ , the brand examined this tradition and translated it to their own reality. But whose memories are they honoring? In their case, they started with a material they use extensively – horse leather. Leon asked for and received a horse skull from a slaughterhouse used to supply the leather, delicately assembled the parts and set it in 40 litres of epoxy resin. An artwork to honor and remember the past and with it the creation of a new existence.
This sculpture became the cornerstone of the entire collection. Bone tones of chalk white, yellowing browns and burnt black representing hues of decay and aging are found across the colours of the garments, footwear and accessories. A horse head bag, true to size and crafted from Guidi horse leather was formed. Paying homage to ‘deceased’ parts of past collections, previous, no longer used patterns were painted onto new derivatives, creating a sense of distant memory, not completely true to the original – just as one recalls.
Jackets and coats were meticulously sewn using horse hair tail, a worldwide first. The teeth of deceased horses, paired with .925 Sterling silver, found new life as rings. Even shorn sheep’s wool played a role, repurposed as insulation in the puffer coats. This collection is a unique blend of artistry, innovation and a poignant nod to the memories we carry forward.
Photography: Victor Sajenko
Styling + Assisting: Callum Edmonds, Giuliana Mamone
