The label “Julius” was founded in Tokyo in 2001 by Tatsuro Horikawa as a means of presenting film projects, the Julius label eventually developed its clothing line in 2004. Nevertheless, the original art idea remained and is now reflected, for example, in dark colors. Using black and grey as the main components of every collection – symbols of madness and pain, respectively – the label centers around Horikawa’s love of art and architecture, which were integral to the brand’s initial formation as an art project. The oversized cuts of the clothes and accessories show a contemporary bohemian style.
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Julius
Blackmerle
BLACKMERLE literally stands for “A dog coated with irregular streaks and speckles”. Inspired by the colorful jitter of merle fur, the label explores the interplay of chaos and unity inherent to a fully interoperable line of ready-to-wear and accessories.
Since launching Blackmerle in 2016, founder and designer Terry Shin has extrapolated the concept of military-style compatibility standards, to its radical conclusion: modular clothing, ready to be deconstructed and repurposed per the requirements of the mission at hand. Transformable elements that allow garments to exist in multiple forms.
In practice, the effect transcends any characterization of simply being ‘tacticool’, as wearers are beckoned to construct a texturally rich agglomeration of attachments and outerwear components that are less representative of a puerile military fantasy and more a startling glimpse at an alternate mid-apocalypse timeline where true ownership is limited to what the body can physically carry.
Rick Owens
Rick Owens is an American fashion designer, well-known for avant-garde luxurious grunge fashion pieces. Owens’s career started in 1994, when he launched his first fashion-line, selling to one of the hippest retailer boutiques exclusively on Hollywood Boulevard in Los Angeles. Before that, his career path did not dissolve so straight in the beginning. After he had dropped out of Otis College of Art and Design, he had taken a course in pattern cutting at Los Angeles’s Trade Technical College and had worked in the fashion industry, designing copies of designer clothing.
The Viridi-Anne
Born in 1963 in Nagano Prefecture, Tomoaki Okaniwa graduated from Tokyo Zoukei University, Department of Fine arts majoring in Painting. Moving from the canvas to a desire for expression through garments and then establishing Caterpillar Produit in 1987.